14 september mmxi
A Detacher Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Review
When Mark and I opened up our invitation to the A Détacher Spring/Summer 2012 show, we were beguiled by the red embroidered flocking of the words GRANDMA’S HOUSE against the black and white images of abodes ranging from tipis to geodesic domes to castles. Last season, it was a brilliant ransom note poster with demands of a chocolate brown Jaguar, peanut butter and jelly on whole grain, and two bottles of Cour-Cheverny. The invitations alone get us every time. Mona Kowalska is that rare designer who never strays from her unique vision, and for that, she has garnered a very dedicated cult following.
We arrived at Pier 59, too late to sneak backstage, but with enough time to meet a fellow named Louis who was neat and spruce in dress and bearing. He was sitting in our row, quiet but garnering attention with his sartorial adroitness. The crowd at this show was very kind, patient, and interesting. Everyone seemed very comfortable in their own skin. The calming spirit of the room was different from any other show we’ve attended.
When the first look came out, I quietly gasped. When the second look came out, I nudged Mark a little too hard. Look after look was incredible and breathtaking. I loved it all. The hair was perfect; brushed forward, streaks of lavender, and knotted at the front, resembling a turban. The faces, fresh and bare. Gorgeous prints of polka dots, houndstooth, abstract geometric daisy florals, and vivid blue digital fractals. Soothing hues of blush, grey, ochre, cream, and aubergine, contrasted against bright blues, pinks, and oranges. The silhouettes were soft and draped, with great movement and airy transparency. Denim on denim, blocked patchwork pieces. Crisp cottons and soft gauzes. High waisted pants, one-shouldered, exaggerated sleeve details, twisted knots. Leather harnesses! Multi-strapped, ankle-wrapped shoes and chunky heeled oxfords. Closing out the show, the piece(s) de resistance may have been the two knit harnesses with sequin embellishments. It was so hauntingly good; a strong collection that lingers.
I don’t think I’ve ever worn a brown cardigan with pink floral appliques strategically placed on the chest, paired with orange bloomers, to my grandma’s house (Look 8: SARAH’s grandmother favored a generous underpant). But I might have to try it next time I see her!
words Doris Ho-Kane
image Poster by A Détacher
image Photos by Mark Ho-Kane